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Technical Section / Re: Wheel Bearings& Tyre size
« Last post by ThomasC11 on Yesterday at 06:20:09 PM »
Hi Keith, here is a description for the bearings. Cheers, 

http://bsac10c11c12.co.uk/smf/technical-tips/front-wheel-taper-bearings-7682/
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Technical Section / Re: Wheel Bearings& Tyre size
« Last post by c11keith on Yesterday at 04:48:44 PM »
Thanks Laurie,I did replace the both front and back about five years ago with the old style ones from Draganfly .It was only that I had i bit of play in the back wheel which i have adjusted ,made me wonder if there were any modification  around.I shall, probable ask the same question when i have to deal with any wheel  problems in the NEAR  :-\ future.Thanks for your input take care Keith
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Technical Section / Re: Tight engine
« Last post by cadetchris on Yesterday at 02:58:37 PM »
With any luck, the chain should be at home. So when I get back I’ll check alignment and then follow Cosmikdebriis‘s excellent guide for the adjustment of the chain.
As for the breather collar, that’s the original and unmolsted one. So touch wood we will get this nut cracked.


The plates are “im pretty sure” are all straight and unworn
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Technical Section / Re: Tight engine
« Last post by camman3 on Yesterday at 02:45:16 PM »
Just one other thing Chris....are the bottom engine/gearbox plates in good straight condition,  and well clamped up, particularly where the centre stand fits?
This is very important on c12, because if things come loose, the bolts quickly wear through plates....and you can end up with a bike with a broken back, never mind a broken chain :o
Graham
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Technical Section / Re: Tight engine
« Last post by camman3 on Yesterday at 01:23:09 PM »
Like Ray, I would lay odds that it is just a case of cheap chain, too tight, snapping, and any misalignment down to the gearbox being "skewed". The sprocket is definately on the right way round, and as Dave says should not need longer bush or shims, as it is where it should be and the fault is elsewhere (if in fact there is one)......provided of course, you have the correct unmolested breather collar fitted behind front sprocket?
Graham
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Technical Section / Re: Wheel Bearings& Tyre size
« Last post by lol300 on Yesterday at 12:01:25 PM »
Hi
i recently changed the front & rear wheel bearings on my 51 c10 to taper roller because i could not find any cup & cones,(not sure if yours are the same on 48 model) & got them from draganfly but i did have a bit of a problem when you screw them onto the spindles they come up short on adjustment by about 1/2" as they bottom out too early so i had to cut some extra thread on both spindles about 3/4" on just one side (the side you take the adjustment up on). they were not cheap though & i am sure you can proberbly find them cheaper but might have to modify.
laurie ;)
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Hi
ok thank you all very much for your kind comments it means a lot  & for all the advice i do see what you mean about not overtighting those 2 bolts though as its rubber mounted & i am pretty sure they are the original bolts,there are similar bolts with holes in the head in the chaincase around the crankshaft.
laurie ;)
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According to BSA they were for a piece of soft copper wire to prevent the nuts unscrewing - remember the tank would be mounted on rubber and the mountings were not supposed to be tight to allow for the rubber to absorb vibration. Both my M21 and B31 have similar
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Technical Section / Re: Tight engine
« Last post by MilitaryRon on Yesterday at 08:46:57 AM »
I buy all my chains from John and Jane http://www.sprocketsunlimited.com/ What they don't know about chains is not worth knowing and a friendly couple you couldn't wish for. Ron
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Technical Section / Re: Tight engine
« Last post by timsdad on Yesterday at 08:12:33 AM »
Yes, I always run a straight-edge down the sides. Anything will do - steel ruler, bit of alloy bar or whatever. It pays to check and it's more likely to discover that the gearbox is on the piss rather than out of alignment. If the sprockets are not straight then it needs looking at but I'd wager that the problem was just a cheap and nasty industrial chain that couldn't stand being a bit too tight. A good chain would have just destroyed the gearbox bearings in about a thousand miles.

These bits of chain that are bought from dealers are usually cut off long lengths of imported industrial stuff from the Orient or Eastern Europe and it's not fit for purpose on motorcycles. I either get decent branded chains, DID is my first choice, or something from Andy the Chain Man. Even Renolds haven't made any decent bike chain for many years - it's ok for occasional use on a C11 but I'd never put it on my old 650 Thunderbird or 250 Yamaha.


Ray
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