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Removing clutch centre
« on: November 30, 2008, 11:00:43 AM »
From: Rustywreck0  (Original Message) Sent: 23/08/2007 15:05
Hi Guys
 
Any hints for removing the keyed clutch centre on my '56 C12 ? I ordered 61-3362 as hinted in the period texts but it is completely wrong..;-)
 
Cheers as ever
 
Robin
 
 
 


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From: sergentwoodie1 Sent: 24/08/2007 00:00
I cannot find the part number you list , in the 1954 /57  C10-C10 parts list, I believe your photo shows the end of the Gearbox pinion sleeve  29-3598, which is only removable by stripping the gearbox, as I say IKBA applies ( I know bugger all) Sergeant Woodie
 

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From: C10Stiles Sent: 24/08/2007 07:55
Hi,
 
You must have an early model gearbox with the tapered shaft as used on the C10/11 models and a 6 spring clutch assembly, What you need is the extractor tool that screws in to the sleve part number 66-3362 from www.Draganfly.co.uk (see section 38) or from Armours in Bournemouth.
 
In 1954 on G/L an onwards to the C12 models they used a splined shaft with two nuts to secure the sleve.
 
Where are you based as i have one of these tools you could borrow if you are local to Hampshire. I also have a early 4 speed gaearbox with the splined shaft  if you are interested.
 
C10 Stiles
 

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From: Birchy Sent: 24/08/2007 09:41
Hey it might sound rough but it works
i had to remove  mine off the end of the gearbox shaft to fit missing spacers behind the foot peg rod and get to the crankcase breather valve
this part is on a taper with a key in it
Two big screw drivers behind it which will push against the inner cover and the gearbox chain sprocket
then your mate will hold a hammer under the clutch centre to take the impact and you hit the top to give it a shock
and it pops off
when u get the hang of it you can use both knees to force the screw drivers back and you have two hands to support it/hit it,or put a jack under it and u can hit the top harder,and it pops off
as i said "rough are us "
and the rest of the crowd will  be having a heart failure reading this
but it works
support the centre to take some impact load off the bearing in the gearbox
same as getting a ball joint or tie rod end off a car
you old blokes still clutching your heart???
these BSA 's are built to take it..
u cannot get a puller behind it,stuff all room
 
birchy
 

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From: sergentwoodie1 Sent: 24/08/2007 11:09
Birchy Good for you, Just a history lesson mate lay off the old guys stuff, When we bought C models as run to work bikes  not as Toys! we had no tools what's a puller? or a torque wrench?, or socket sets?, We had what BSA provided in the tool kit, plus some ex Army spanners Dad bought home . Yes BSA can take it they were made in Britain  when money was scarce, and one needed the bike for tomorrows shift. I take it you were useing the Bike lamp off your sisters bike  to see. We will make a 1950's mechanic of you yet, good on yer as i said your learning curve is increasing.
 

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From: bsa_C11G Sent: 24/08/2007 12:56
Measure the diameter of the main shaft.
Send the extractor that you bought back with a photo of your clutch plus the one you have uploaded to this site and exchange it for the proper one for your clutch more than likley it will be the 1" x 24 tpi as used on the M20 ( and most pre war models)

All preunit gearbox mainshafts have the same taper so it is possible to fit a lot of incorrect clutches ( bolt up gearboxes were different).

As suggested to remove it all you need to do is apply a load to the sleve then jar it off by hitting the mainshaft.

While the 2 screwdriver method may work just remember that in it's day this sleve would have been removed 3 or 4 times every year or so to replace the drive sprocket so it would have come away quite easily.

Yours probably has not been touched for years & more than likley will be really really difficult to shift ( unique property of taper joints).

I have a stupid philosophy about special tools, if the tool is cheaper than the part I need it for then I buy the tool, otherwise I bodge some sort of work around .

Then there is the other little problem. If you damage the flange on the sleve then your whole clutch is useless as the drum will not be able to run true on the mainshaft. However I suppose that is not a problem over in the "Old Dart" as there is still a Beesa shop on every street corner where you can pop in & buy a replacement, correct? Down here in the antipodies that is a big problem.
Bike beesa
Trevor
 

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From: Rustywreck0 Sent: 24/08/2007 15:53
Thanks Guys..
 
Sarge / Stilesy- think it should come off this side without stripping gbox..the tool is mentioned in Lupton & Haycraft & in service sheet 711. Think it refers to bit that came off earlier in the strip, but no threads on tapered sleeve to use an extractor..( Draganfly insist it's the right tool even with the photo in front of em ;-) )
 
Yup I have a 6 spring clutch as per C11...
 
Birchy - tried this with little force and cheap drivers..but will try in anger with a mate - the thought of hammering downwards whilst holding 2 screwdrivers between my knees sounds like a trip to the vasec clinic to me ;-)
 
Trev - yes there are BSA dealers on every corner in Blighty selling shiny new bikes, but I prefer the finish of rust red...
 
Off to buy a blow torch, cricket box, lathe and cheap muscle..
 
Will keep you posted - hey at least the resto has started in anger !
 
Cheers
 
Robin
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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From: C10Stiles Sent: 28/08/2007 20:44
Hi,
 
Do you have any car type mates that have an old track rod end extractor, you might be able to just get the claw end in the back and do up the nut then give it a big thump.
 
 
C10 Stiles
 
 

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From: bsa_C11G Sent: 29/08/2007 10:54
If it is an original BSA clutch sleve then there will be 4 or 5 turns of either 24 t.p.i. or 26 t.p.i. thread on the inside of the sleve.
If it is a cheap aftermarket one, then there may not be any thread.
Or if it is like a lot of mine then the thead will be way past it use by date.
If there is no useable thread I suggest that you buy a nice new sleve on and cut this one off as you will have to take it off at fairly regular intervals if you intend to do much in the way of serious riding and you will run into the same problem every time.

OTOH you could also invest in a 2" 3 jaw gear puller and grind the jaws down to fit behind the sleve.

Bike Beesa
Trevor
 

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From: Rustywreck0 Sent: 07/12/2007 11:55
Cheers Guys
 
Embarassed to say only removed it a few weeks ago - you were right - bench grinder to fabricate thinner leg tags then a hammer and bingo. Thinking of making clutch job into TV series / DVD and book 'Long Time To Get Off' to make some money..intend a long trip to the shops in 3 years time..