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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by Owen on Yesterday at 05:57:25 pm »
There are usually only two wires on the feed to the coil. One is the ignition from the switch and the other is the feed to the horn?
I would suggest you wire the coil directly to the battery and see if you get a spark when turning over the engine.
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by ricky77 on Yesterday at 05:51:24 pm »
Guys horn problem is solve...was a contact with rear lamp....that's the situation.....i have no sparking    tdc is ok ..gap  on point is ok......
Black from distributor to + coil new one lucas ....
The other three  go to + or -.........
Probably i' thinking point are Burned......As are light blu/ purple.........could be' this the problem of no spark......thanks ricky
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by camman3 on Yesterday at 10:47:57 am »
Well I've had it....it will take just a minute Ricky to run a wire from battery positive to the handlebars to prove whether the horn button is switching to earth cleanly.
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by Tman on Yesterday at 09:37:31 am »
Painted and rusty corroded earth points are more of a problem in my experience. Those greasy headsets have been with us for many decades now with no ill-effects. Mag cut-out one side and horn the other, both work just fine.
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by camman3 on Yesterday at 08:54:08 am »
Yes, which is why I suggested a wire directly to battery to test.
I always take an earth wire (positive in this case) directly to handlebars, as it is not going to receive a very good one via the the greasy steering head bearings, especially at 6 volts...like I said..you cant have too many earths.
Graham
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by timsdad on Yesterday at 08:38:20 am »
Whatever the earthing problem is, it's worth pointing out that the horn and brake light switch should both be fed direct from the battery, without going through the ammeter, because the amount of current they need can overload the ammeter. If they are already getting a feed from the ammeter connection that supplies the switches then the horn and brake light wires should be removed and fitted to the other terminal on the ammeter that goes straight to the battery. I always feed mine direct from the battery area, to keep the wires short.

This is an easy fault to fix, by simple process of elimination. Is there current getting to the horn? If so, does it toot when the other terminal is earthed directly to the battery? If so, does it toot when earthed directly to the handlebar? etc, etc.


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by ricky77 on September 14, 2019, 06:15:35 pm »
owen c11 1946 12 volt positive earth.................is not sparking.......and the horn is working only with rear brake pressure....
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by Tman on September 14, 2019, 06:14:51 pm »
I think he's sussed it Owen.. ;)
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by Owen on September 14, 2019, 06:01:48 pm »
This needs to go back to basics.
Which model bike do you have?
When you say 'since this morning horn works only with brake pedal pressed' is that with the ignition on and or off?
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Technical Section / Re: horn....problem
« Last Post by ricky77 on September 14, 2019, 05:43:23 pm »
i'm thinking someone entered my garage and disconnected wires ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)thank's guys from italy
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