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Technical Section / Re: tightning up
« Last post by donkey on Yesterday at 03:05:43 PM »
Your quite on the mark there Owen (very little), my little c11g has a constant oil flow from starting even on tick over then after a little while it has one or two spurts with air at tick over then when the revs are raised a little it returns to a constant flow again. I have a video of the oil flow if I get time I will upload it later well my granddaughter will.
donkey
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Technical Section / Re: tightning up
« Last post by Owen on Yesterday at 12:26:16 PM »
We question the ability of a dribble to lubricate a C engine.  Just think how much oil lubricates a two stroke engine?
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Technical Section / Re: tightning up
« Last post by timsdad on Yesterday at 11:32:03 AM »
Yes, I know, Owen, but I meant by looking at the return in the tank. I have never been able to see any difference in the volume of oil being pushed around between all the different capacity BSA pumps. Or the standard and uprated plunger pumps on the Triumphs.

Ray
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Technical Section / Re: tightning up
« Last post by Owen on Yesterday at 10:13:39 AM »
You can only tell the difference by stripping the oil pump. Early versions had 13 teeth and the later ones (higher capacity) 12 teeth IIRC
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Technical Section / Re: Alternator woodruff on crankshaft
« Last post by Owen on Yesterday at 10:11:04 AM »
Having looked at the parts list I was thinking of the wrong disc.  You lot are talking about 82A 'Alternator spinner'
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Technical Section / Re: Alternator woodruff on crankshaft
« Last post by timsdad on Yesterday at 08:11:08 AM »
That's a good idea, John, and I'll file it away in the memory for when I run out of second hand parts and ideas of how to fix previous owners' bodge-ups and muddles.

I also remember reading about the alloy disc was to shield the alternator when the bikes had radios fitted for escort duties and the like.



Ray

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Technical Section / Re: tightning up
« Last post by timsdad on Yesterday at 07:58:35 AM »
What we have to remember is that the dribbling, spurting or vomiting, call it what you will, of oil in the tank is the oil from the scavenge return pipe and just shows that the oil and air is returning from the sump so there's no build-up in there.

When the bike is revved while watching in the tank there will be no immediate difference in it because, although the flow may have doubled or trebled through the pressure side, it takes time for this oil to appear. It has been pushed by the pressure gears through the big end and various bushes to be hurled around the innards of the motor and run back into the sump to then be picked up by the scavenge pump and returned to where you can see it bubbling out.

It's very difficult for us who have got used to the foibles of old Brit bikes to give an accurate assessment of the oil flow by looking at a short video. We need to have a hand on the throttle, an ear to the clatter and a finger on the pulse.

I've got BSAs with pre'54, post '54 and Draganfly high-capacity pumps, also Triumphs with standard and Morgo high capacity pumps and I'm buggered if I can see the difference!


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: Rectifier
« Last post by timsdad on Yesterday at 07:41:21 AM »
I think she probably mentioned that you have special needs, Owen, and a 'Twenty Yards Breast Stroke' sustificate doesn't really count.

Ray
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Technical Section / Re: Alternator woodruff on crankshaft
« Last post by chaterlea25 on June 23, 2018, 11:07:47 PM »
Hi All,
The alloy disc was I believe something to do with the magnetic fields from the rotor/ stator
Dunno?? no other bikes seen to have used them AFAIK

Anyway to the rotor,
Back in the 70's when my C12 had a loose rotor, I centered it in the stator by wrapping some brass shim around it
and filled between the crank and rotor with loctite retaining grade

Pre unit Triumphs are worse than BSA's as the crank only goes half way into the rotor and a sleeve nut is supposed to hold it central

I saw a "cure" way back when "Bike magazine " published such articles
I have copied the idea and it has worked successfully on a couple of occasions
Chuck up the rotor in a lathe and countersink both sides 45 degrees (90 included angle) approx 5mm deep
Then machine up two two angled spacers to match the counter sinks in the rotor, slightly thicker so the will sit a little proud of the rotor, make the inner bore a tight fit on the crank
Split the spacers in one place with a hacksaw cut
When you bolt the assembly (good and tight) up  the split spacers will grip on the crank and the taper will grip the rotor

John

 
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Technical Section / Re: The new type clutch plates for 6 spring
« Last post by stev60 on June 23, 2018, 10:57:18 PM »
Ive read quite a few adverse comments on the six spring clutch, the 3 bikes  have all have that type, I cant really fault them, apart from the time taken in setting them up, used to use a DTI but found the eye to be better,  they are are basic and certainly not a precision bit of engineering, ive found by getting angles and push rod length right and  playing with adjustments and cable length  the pull on the lever can be minimal.
From new did BSA intend the clutch to dry, probably not with the amount of oil thrown around , but as the cork soaks up more oil it must become less efficient, some of the old plates ive taken out are completely glazed and its hard to see them working
Steve
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