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Technical Section / Re: C11G 54 no spark
« Last Post by Cosmikdebriis on Today at 05:02:02 pm »
Well that seems to confirm my suspicions. It certainly isn't a zener diode or has anything much in common with one.
It would appear you have two yellow AC wires for the alternator and a red and black wire for the battery. I would guess the heatsink is isolated so it wouldn't matter if the bike was positive or negative earth. If it were mine though I'd run a resistance check between the black wire and heatsink and the red wire and heatsink. If either gives a reading of "0" then it does matter.
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Technical Section / Re: No BSA topic but Sunbeam
« Last Post by MilitaryRon on Today at 04:32:59 pm »
Well I've never heard this one! But nothing ventured and all that. I'm riding out to our club meeting tonight on my 5SW. So I slackened the wheel spindle nuts, clamped the front brake lever tight on and re-tightened the nuts........I'll find out if it's any better later!  Cheers Ron
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Technical Section / Re: No BSA topic but Sunbeam
« Last Post by ThomasC11 on Today at 03:49:22 pm »
Yes, Ray, it’s great to see how the good old knowledge is passed on by tradition, isn’t it?
Thanks again, Thomas
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Technical Section / Re: No BSA topic but Sunbeam
« Last Post by timsdad on Today at 03:02:18 pm »
It's how I've tightened a wheel spindle since the 1960s, Thomas, following the guidance of a wise old motorcyclist who lived near me. These old boys who helped me out in my teenage years were generous with their knowledge so I try to do the same.

I assume it gets the two shoes central in the drum and takes up any tolerance in the axle and fork bottoms before they're tightened. I'm glad it's sorted out.


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: No BSA topic but Sunbeam
« Last Post by ThomasC11 on Today at 02:02:44 pm »
Hi all! For now the price seems to go to Ray. I followed your procedure and adjusted the brake before tightening the wheel spindle (and filed chamfers to the shoes). Here we go, the stuttering is gone. So, thank you for this advice. I now wonder what in details happens when doing that. I thought the two shoes centralise automatically.
Best, Thomas
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Technical Section / Re: C11G 54 won't start
« Last Post by Ginge on Today at 12:13:12 pm »
Yeah.  NGK "E" is a long reach plug.  NGK "R" is a resistor plug. Neither are necessary with C11G

Change to NGK B6HS or B7HS.  Original was Champion L10s so any equivalent will do.

Hard to start may be flat battery from the previous charging problem.  Hard to start may be valve clearances again.  Hard to start may be dirty spark plug from the fuel issues from carburettor. Hard to start may be points and ignition timing.

For setting idle you must have valve clearances checked.  Battery charged. Then start bike with idle screw too fast.  Once bike is running, lower idle screw to slow, then adjust air screw until bike runs evenly,  then lower air screw until bike is nearly stalling and adjust air screw again for nice even running.  Air screw should be about 1.5 turns out form fully screwed in.

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Technical Section / Re: C11G 54 won't start
« Last Post by John M on Today at 11:51:49 am »
Hello

Today she was really hard to start comparing with previous days . One thing I never pay attention on the spark plug reference .  It's a ngk BR8ES ! Not sure if is suitable for this machine . There is anyone that can tell which references and brands are the recommended ?

Isn't that a long reach plug ? The usual plugs are short reach, Champion L82C or NGK B7HS ( or equivalent ).
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Technical Section / Re: C11G 54 no spark
« Last Post by Ginge on Today at 11:45:27 am »
When you get the bike home from storage can you please post another picture of the zener diode/heat sink and the wires that connect to it.  That looks unusual.

Check the washers at the points.  Disconnect the ignition switch and run a wire from battery to the coil as they suggest above.  I think you will see spark.
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Technical Section / Re: C11G 54 no spark
« Last Post by gsseirik on Today at 11:15:15 am »
Thanks for the graphic Cosmicdebriis. No hampshirebiker, I have done very little troubleshooting so far. I only got a quick glance at the bike yesterday. I will dig deeper (and keep all your helpful input in mind) when I get it home from storage. And I will disassemble as little as possible before I try the direct wire from battery to coil.
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