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Technical Section / Re: 1939 C10 Shock absorber
« Last Post by Lilyloodles on Today at 10:11:16 am »
I noticed a very early (front oil fed) C10 bottom end on Ebay yesterday. Although cases are knackered and seller wants £50, the splines look good so might be worth a punt. Some sellers will sell for cheaper if they are getting no response

Tony
2
Technical Section / Re: 1939 C10 Shock absorber
« Last Post by Mikey82 on Today at 08:41:07 am »
Thanks for the info John, I will try that whilst I,m waiting for a replacement crank.
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Technical Section / Re: wassell EI for the c12 or any other experience
« Last Post by woody on Yesterday at 09:20:44 pm »
will do John but I have the cart well in front of the horse and it looks like there has been a high speed air accident in my shed so it may take some time as Captain Oats said.. Cheers again Woody
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Technical Section / Re: wassell EI for the c12 or any other experience
« Last Post by chaterlea25 on Yesterday at 09:03:59 pm »
Hi woody
OK, no worries
Let us know how you get on with it

John
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Technical Section / Re: 1939 C10 Shock absorber
« Last Post by chaterlea25 on Yesterday at 09:00:18 pm »
Hi Mikey,
Aside from the worn splines on the shaft  :o
Try this to see if you have the correct or compatible components
Fit the inner sleeve only on the crank
(There are many variations of this sleeve used on different BSA models also different thickness inner shoulders so the primary sprockets  will line up)
The sleeve should be long enough to come out past the end of the splines on the crank
so when the nut is fitted it clamps the sleeve bearing spacer and the parts inside the crankcase solidly to the crank flywheel..
If this is OK ?
Fit the sprocket and sliding cam onto the sleeve (without the spring) and thread the nut fully on against the sleeve
Now try and see if the sprocket will override the cam ?
It should not overide
If it does override the the cams are worn too far to use

A possible probable reason for the wear on the crank is that the wrong sleeve was fitted and was not clamped solidly to the crank as it has to be

John
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Technical Section / Re: wassell EI for the c12 or any other experience
« Last Post by woody on Yesterday at 08:53:13 pm »
Hi John, I did get one of the enfield alternator kits as they where so cheap, but as you may have seen after emailing Griff and getting a great review of the electrex kit he has fitted to his own C12 and others in his stable, It looks like i am going to bite the bullet and fit this system as it does away with all the parts i don't have and saves me having to do a full harness and search for any other items  I will keep the enfield bit for any other eventualities down the road. I have confirmed with griff that the kit needed is STK100D-DC which includes Ignition and Lighting and the info given by Electrex was in error. Cheers for your input it was very valued Woody
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Technical Section / Re: wassell EI for the c12 or any other experience
« Last Post by chaterlea25 on Yesterday at 08:37:25 pm »
Hi woody,
That kit seems to be somewhat universal on their website it says
BSA B25, B40, B44, B50, C15 | Matchless 350 | Royal Enfield: 350 Bullet Digital Ignition/Lighting Alternator Kit - STK-100D-DC

With this kit the timing is done with the replacement flywheel rotor,
The original alternator  and the points housing on the BSA's engine are made redundant

Did you buy the replacement Enfield alternator on ebay?
If so then the wassel EI with a little modifiaction to fit the trigger plate should work

It all depends on how much money you want to spend

John
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Technical Section / Re: C12 clutch set up
« Last Post by johnboyfully on Yesterday at 05:43:46 pm »
Thanks Ray (and the other replyees)
I think I have a better understanding now. To ensure the push rod was not fouling the pressure plate I put a dab of oil on the end of the pushrod and offered up the pressure plate. It took a couple of goes but the clutch now seems a lot better and the old girl spluttered into life a couple of times, but cut out when I dethrottled! But progress!
Thank you for your advice and comments, JBF
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Technical Section / Re: C12 clutch set up
« Last Post by timsdad on Yesterday at 03:50:07 pm »
The clutch is a very simple mechanism but you have to actually understand how it works to repair and set it up, JBF. The springs squeeze it all together to enable the kick starter to turn the engine and the engine to then drive the back wheel through the gearbox. If the push rod is removed temporarily then the engine should kick over properly if the clutch springs are assembled correctly. If it does then the adjustment of the rod is incorrect.

If the push rod is replaced, the clutch should lift when the lever is pulled in to enable the drive to spin free. It seems that your push rod may be a touch too long so it's holding the pressure plate slightly off the fibre plate or the cable is holding the clutch tight, with no free play.


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: C12 clutch set up
« Last Post by johnboyfully on Yesterday at 01:50:36 pm »
The plates are new and dry Graham
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