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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by kdm on Yesterday at 09:58:19 pm »
Don't worry about it too much as it will possibly leak oil ftom somewhere else....
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Technical Section / Re: 58 C12 Head Stock
« Last Post by nightster on Yesterday at 09:31:32 pm »
Sorry people, my lack of reply for a couple of days, work commitment, you know the boring stuff that pays for the tinkering around, my wife is saying she is becoming a bike widow, good job we haven't started on the two Enfields or the Ariel, as i pointed out smugly i had bikes before i met you, seemed a good reply to me!
Anyway i digress, thanks for the info on the tool, i have the engineering shop on standby and will use the new bearings as the pattern when they arrive,
I will keep you up to date as we go, thanks all Mark.
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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by hampshirebiker on Yesterday at 09:24:56 pm »
And when the bowl is full it will stop leaking.
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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by jacksboy on Yesterday at 08:53:30 pm »
Just stick a bowl underneath it that doe's the job, that's what i do.
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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by Owen on Yesterday at 08:36:29 pm »
As Thanks says the grease allowes the gasket to sit in the outer case prior to fitting. It also allows the gasket to come off easily, usually without damage and can be reused.  Don't forget to tighten the screws like you do with the cylinder head, working from the middle (top and bottom) outwards and don't tighten them all the way first go.
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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by Tman on Yesterday at 08:28:39 pm »
The old grease on the gasket trick won't last for long, and it's usually done to locate the gasket when it's new.
Running it dry with chain lube works well for me, but another trick is to run a small bead of silicone sealant around both sides of the gasket and let it set for a day or so. When you fit it the silicon stuff will be the consistency of soft rubber but no longer sticky or runny, and take up relatively large irregularities in the mating surfaces.
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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by alangraham on Yesterday at 07:49:37 pm »
Thanks for the suggestions guys.  For the record I've already done the hammering flat trick and it's as flat as I'm going to get it.  Still leaks.  I'm interested in the suggestion where grease is applied to both sides of a cork gasket.  I have LM bearing grease, is that what you've used?  I'm aware that there are different greases like there are different oils.
Otherwise I'm tempted by the run it dry and spray on chain grease and accept that modern sprays do things that work wonders.  The thing is, what's a modern spray?  Seriously I don't have a clue.  The C11 is the only machine I own.
Alan
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Technical Section / Re: C11 1952 wiring loom.
« Last Post by timsdad on Yesterday at 08:48:11 am »
If you just swap over the + and - symbols on your wiring diagram, Mr S, you can then follow it exactly as it works the same either way. Change over the + and -  with a pencil and it's done!

You will need to remember that all the earth wires will be the same colour as the earth wire from your battery to frame and the dynamo will also need polarising to suit your earth method. If you are not familiar with this, there are many previous postings on it and it will probably have to be done anyway if the dynamo has been dormant for a year or two. You just earth the dynamo body onto the Positive battery terminal before you wire it up to the bike, either on the bike or on the bench, and flash the live battery terminal onto the dynamo Field connection a couple of times so it softly clunks into life. It will then charge Positive Earth, whether it was pos, neg or nothing at all before.

On your positive earthed bike, the positive (or CB) side of the coil needs to be the low tension wire that goes down to the points and condenser.


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: C11 chaincase leaks
« Last Post by timsdad on Yesterday at 08:33:09 am »
I've got quite good workshop facilities, Thomas, but these have been built up over a great many years. I started off in a dirt-floored shed, mostly chicken shit with an old sack over it, and with the light of a bicycle lamp in the winter time. I have spent over fifty years improving things and, as I've always done my own repairs, had to adapt and make do with what I had available. I was lucky to have a shed to get out of the wind and rain as a mate just had his back yard.

Fifty years ago I was tapping BSA chain cases straight on an old table with a coal hammer and half inch bolt - it does us good to not have things too easy.


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: C11 1952 wiring loom.
« Last Post by Owen on Yesterday at 06:39:04 am »
We need a picture of the connections on the back of the switch to see which is which and advise you correctly.
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