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Technical Section / Re: Rectifier 1955 C11G
« Last Post by RayC10 on Yesterday at 07:18:33 pm »
What Ray says, just an encapsulated bridge rectifier, wire as the drawing you have, AC from the alternator via the light switch any way round, diagonally opposite terminals, DC side, looks like the + is marked on the side of yours so easy. + to frame if positive earth, check how the battery is connected...simple as expensive smoke.
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Technical Section / Re: Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by Tman on Yesterday at 05:26:32 pm »
Looks like someone's had a metric spanner on a couple of those nuts. Best replaced for the rebuild.
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Technical Section / Re: Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by Donald on Yesterday at 03:48:49 pm »
I got the head off, it looks like the oil is running down two of the head studs ? The piston was wet with petrol oil mixture.. A few days agoThe first attempt to start , the carb was flooding badly, it turned out to be no sealing washer on the jet block. I am thinking the oil is contaminated with petrol,
Anyway the solid copper gasket has been annealed again, everything cleaned and checked for flatness with a flat edge and light behind it, Will tack it back together and see what it throws up next.when it was running it did not like to tickover, and some black smoke, ,at higher revs it ran clean and sounded good
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Technical Section / Re: Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by camman3 on Yesterday at 03:13:34 pm »
I presume you have re torqued the bolts/nuts a couple of times?
Did you use a composite head gasket?, as some of these can be dodgy, especially if been sitting around for a long time before fitting.
If you are going to have the head off and check for flatness etc, I would recommend fitting a solid copper gasket, which Dranganfly sometime have, or you could get direct from Lani's which I believe is where Draganfly get them anyway.....dont forget to anneal it before fitting.
Graham
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Technical Section / Re: Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by hampshirebiker on Yesterday at 01:52:24 pm »
My C12 had the same problem and was otherwise running fine. If you're confident you can identify the exact cause then start dismantling. Do one stud at a time, otherwise you will have to take the head off. It may be papering over the cracks to the purists, but try the simple things first.
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Technical Section / Re: Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by Owen on Yesterday at 12:43:13 pm »
Or do the job properly. It could be the head gasket not seating correctly or a number of other reasons.  Best to whip of the head and investigate properly.
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Technical Section / Re: Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by hampshirebiker on Yesterday at 12:14:02 pm »
Wind plenty of PTFE around the thread; before the washer and nut.
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Technical Section / Cylinder head / barrel leak
« Last Post by Donald on Yesterday at 11:56:16 am »
Hi all, got some time to start up my C11G, today,a few teething problems the main one is it would appear to be leaking oil down the head bolt and possiblity up the  barrel studs,have tried to get a good picture,will have to remove head anyway as it's also leaking at the pushrod tube side . Anyone had this bother? Any thoughts or suggestions.
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Technical Section / Re: Rectifier 1955 C11G
« Last Post by timsdad on Yesterday at 08:54:24 am »
You all seem to be over-complicating things here, to someone who has very little idea of electrickery, as this new rectifier is a direct replacement for the old rectifier, - which actually has only two AC wires going to it. We know there are usually three wires coming from the alternator but these go to the original rectifier via the ignition and lighting switch that are regulating the current before it gets to the rectifier.

We have no way of knowing, as yet, whether the bike is 6 or 12 volt, positive or negative earth, so we don't know if it actually needs regulating. In answer to your very basic question, Gordon, it is wired exactly the same as the old plate-type rectifier that you probably removed.

The two outside spade terminals off your old rectifier are the two AC wires from the alternator and they go onto the AC spades of your new rectifier and it doesn't matter which way round they go. The negative and positive marked spades of your new rectifier are for the earth wire and the live wire (the centre one off the old rectifier) that go to the battery. If your bike is positive earth then obviously the + (pos) goes to the frame earth and it's sensible to put it onto the same earthing bolt as your battery earth is connected to. The - (neg) goes to the live side of the battery via the switch or ammeter just the same as your old rectifier.

If your bike is negative earth then the - and + connections are just reversed so the correct new rectifier connection goes to earth.

There are no complications here, it's just a direct replacement, wire for wire and only four of them.


Ray
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Technical Section / Re: Rectifier 1955 C11G
« Last Post by Ginge on Yesterday at 06:45:33 am »
Just to add a bit more, HB is correct in saying that all that little component does is rectify meaning it turns alternating current into direct current.  It won’t control how much direct current it feeds your battery or ignition system. 

You also need to regulate that direct current so it doesn’t over charge. You could use a  zener diode system or a modern black box regulator.  Possibly an old mechanical regulator designed for a dynamo bike ( not sure about that though )

I ran a Triumph without regulation for a couple of years using that same component by running with the headlight on all the time.  It worked after a fashion but boiled three batteries so not an ideal solution.  That was a 12v high revving bike.  You might get away with it on a low revving 6v bike...maybe.

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