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Technical Section / Last Few C11 Parts To ID
« Last post by Tim K on Yesterday at 02:46:27 PM »
Hi, these are the last few components to identify. Again, any help is much appreciated.
Technical Section / Re: Help To ID More Compoments Required
« Last post by Tim K on Yesterday at 01:34:39 PM »
Ah right! Hence the hole trough it…….
Why go to the bother of all those extra parts though!? Seems to be a poor decision… my humble opion…
Technical Section / Re: Help To ID More Compoments Required
« Last post by Owen on Yesterday at 01:31:32 PM »
The hole on the right (when sat on the bike) is for the speedo.
Technical Section / Re: Help To ID More Compoments Required
« Last post by Tim K on Yesterday at 01:20:50 PM »
Thank you very much for that info.
What is the second aperture in the tank for please? It’s the oil tank on the 1939 KC10 I’m currently working on. But the post war one is blank, sort of.
Technical Section / Re: Initial start up turns into total rebuild !
« Last post by repete on Yesterday at 01:17:09 PM »
Graham - I can get the 7/16"-20 UNF nut from the major suppliers via internet order.  I guess it's not a popular size being that locally two hardware stores didn't have it.  I'm not going to continue running around for a couple of nuts and will just order them.
I am familiar with Nooky's Nuts.  I learned of them somewhere along the way in this journey and have in fact made a few purchases from them.
Regarding the bushing o.d.'s interference with the case hole, it's just slightly more than 1/2 thous.  It measures out at .0007".  Being that little it was cause for concern, but ultimately it wasn't the deciding factor in in having a custom bushing made.  I didn't get the interference between the layshaft and the i.d. of the bushing I had anticipated.  The i.d of the new bushing is at .6895" and the layshaft is at .685" leaving .0045" of free play.  That's too much!
Undoubtedly the layshaft has worn.  I don't have / couldn't find what a stock layshaft should be measuring on that side but ultimately it matters not b/c I need to deal with what I've got.... not what it once was.  And, the differential will increase a bit more b/c there are some very slight "rings" on the shaft where it was inside of the old bushing.  Extremely slight but you can see the difference between that section of the shaft and other areas where the metal is unaltered.  I can also feel them with my finger.  They're so slight I can see where someone would be tempted to use it as is but now is the time to address it.  It should clean right up with a couple of touches of Emory cloth and Scotch-Brite while spinning in the lathe.  That'll be first order of business before starting on the making of the bushing.

Owen - I was getting some great guidance regarding the bronze and steering me away from using too soft of a bronze which I nearly purchased.  It was recommended to me that the bronze of choice is "PB1".  The "P" I'm guessing is due to the phosphorus that's added for resistance to corrosion and cold.
That said, it became apparent early on that the the specs on that side of the Atlantic (the PB1) differ than those here in the US.  That resulted in having to do a bit of research and some Q&A with some of the more experienced folks here in the US.

Here in the states we have 932, 954 & 959 bronze.  And there are others, but these are the most applicable.
Here's a description lifted from the distributor.:

932 Bearing Bronze
932 Bearing Bronze offers good hardness and strength, as well as excellent anti-friction qualities. It is typically used in automotive, industrial, and aerospace applications. 932 Bearing Bronze is available in flats, rounds, or squares.
954 Aluminum Bronze
954 Aluminum Bronze is an all-purpose aluminum bronze alloy that offers exceptional performance in applications where high strength and abrasion resistance are required. Because of this, 954 Aluminum Bronze is typically used in valves and bearings.

Interestingly, when reading a description of the PB1 bronze, it indicated that it's corrosive properties were nearing that of aluminum bronze... which I see as meaning it's almost as good, but not quite as good.  I reviewed this all with the fellow that worked on my engine re-bore and flywheel alignment.  He happens to be a mechanical engineer which gives me a bit of confidence.  As I did, he zeroed in on the 954 bronze.  Of course it's the more difficult to get and the more expensive.

I'm confident the correct choice has been made and now it's just a matter of waiting to receive my little 3" long nub and the machining.
Technical Section / Re: clutch
« Last post by Rusty on Yesterday at 09:47:34 AM »
When I was living In UK and did my clutch corks (very satisfying to do it yourself) I got the cork “splits” sheets of 4mm from a business called Cantrills - and followed the tutorial from one of our members “Brilliandy” and all went fine.
Worth a look
Technical Section / Re: Initial start up turns into total rebuild !
« Last post by Owen on January 25, 2022, 10:10:21 PM »
Good Progress. What spec of bronze did they recommend?
Technical Section / Re: Initial start up turns into total rebuild !
« Last post by camman3 on January 25, 2022, 09:32:45 PM »
I'm sure you will have found a supplier of imperial fasteners in the USA Pete, but Nookys Nuts in UK are good and reasonably priced.

May cause consternation, but I think as long as there is half a thou interference on bush OD, it will be fine with a smear of bearing fit Loctite.
How much clearance is there on ID to the layshaft diameter?

Drinking a lot of tea will sort all other problems ;)
Technical Section / Re: Initial start up turns into total rebuild !
« Last post by repete on January 25, 2022, 08:42:37 PM »
Hello all
A few developments over the past week or so.
I ordered a 7/16-20tpi UNF Die and dressed up the threads on the brake pedal shaft.  They appear to have cleaned up well and I'm banking on the small differential between the UNF & BSC won't come into play.  Unfortunately I haven't been successful in finding a 7/16-20 nut at two of the local hardware stores.  I'll probably end up having to order from one of the larger suppliers and pay the $5-$7 shipping for $1 worth of nuts.  When you get down to it, what's the fuel, wear and tear on the truck and my time worth running from place to place.  In the big scheme of things it'll probably be easiest and best.
Now, the layshaft bushings:
the kick side bushing which the shaft passes through is in place in the center case.  The i.d. needs to be enlarged a hair and I bought an adjustable handheld reamer.  This'll be relatively simple process.
The other layshaft bushing on the clutch side - the blind bushing - remains a challenge.
Firstly, I previously reported the wrong o.d. and expected amount of interference.  based on incorrect math I had been expecting a .00395" interference with the case.  Well, I was wrong and the corrected measurements & math indicate that I've got such a small amount of interference that there may actually be an issue with the bushing being held tightly enough within the case.  Add to this that my concern of the shaft fitting inside of the bushing was also unfounded b/c there's actually more space than ideal... it'd be a bit sloppy for a brand new installation.
So, another visit to the guys at my company's machine shop (God bless these guys for putting up with me) and they assured me they will make me the bushing.... but that I needed to locate the correct size and type of bronze.  I won't bog this update down with all the details, but what an education I've had over the past number of days.  Then, after identifying the correct bronze to be used I needed to locate a supplier that'd sell a very small quantity.  I was able to place an order for a 3" long piece and have been "auto response system" told that delivery should be around the 7th of February.  It is coming from a third party so there's no tracking.  I'll just need to be patient and hope that the order goes through smoothly.  Watch for the debit from my account I suppose.
That is all that's keeping me from reassembling the gearbox.
Well, that and I've mostly forgotten how and where the selector forks and such go!   ???   :-[
Technical Section / Re: Help To ID More Compoments Required
« Last post by ned on January 25, 2022, 07:22:58 PM »
tank c10/11 1946/48 or b31/33 1946/7 or A7 1947
Oil tank c10/11
fork 1949 on  Model ?
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