Author Topic: 1956 BSA C12 Clutch  (Read 1529 times)

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Offline AdminPete

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1956 BSA C12 Clutch
« on: November 24, 2008, 04:26:07 pm »
Hello, need some help on locating a clutch for my C12. I believe the
one I have is sticking, not releasing. I have clean it already and work
fine for a short while, it is sticking again.
Can anyone point me in the right direction. Anyone in the
USA selling his puppies?
Thanks for in info!!
Arnold
Plano,TX USA
 


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From: PeteRudge1 Sent: 01/05/2006 19:15
Hi Arnold,
I can't help you myself with this one, but if you put a wanted ad on here you may find someone who can. Messages get pushed down the queue in time, but wanted ads stay till deleted. Good luck with your search.
Pete
 

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From: TimOK_C12 Sent: 08/05/2006 18:41
Is that the original Clutch?

Do you mean you need new plates? or a Basket? springs? or the whole thing. Sounds like you may want to try a lighter weight oil for starters.
Just clean the plates really really well then try a lighter oil, and be sure you do not over fill the primary case...

All else fails then call Domi Racer and get new plates. Since they originals are not made you need to use A7 plates I think. Ask the parts guy at Domi he helped me with mine last summer.

good luck.
Tim
 

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From: C10_11_12 Sent: 10/05/2006 12:13
A7 or A10 clutch plates do not fit the C11G/C12 clutch. The outside diameter is bigger on the twins plates. For the plain steel ones the clutch center is different. Maybe C15 do the job. 
 

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From: PeteRudge1 Sent: 10/05/2006 18:30
I've just bought A7 friction plates for my C12 clutch and they are a perfect fit. The plain plates weren't A7 though, but I'm not sure now what they were. I could obtain the part numbers if anyone is interested. I've also been told that although 4 spring Triumph clutch spring nuts look different, they do the job perfectly well.
Pete
 

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From: zepol2006 Sent: 11/05/2006 00:06
Hey, Guys thanks for all that info on the C12 clutch. This was my first time taking a
clutch apart, at least on a motorcycle. It was pretty easy on this C12. The problem
was that the clutch plate with the cork on it was wet with oil and not adjust right. I clean them out with gasoline and all the other plates. Put it back together and work just fine for about two run up and down the alley. Then it started to mess up again.I
could not get it in gear with grinding. I didn't have the clutch lever in the transmission adjust right. I finally figure out that I was making the adjustment in the wrong direction.....daaa. I did have to make a monster cork gasket for the primary cover. Went the hardware store and bought some thick cork, made a template, cut one out and installed it ,fit nicely. I have not added oil yet to see if leaks.
Can someone tell me if the oil in the primary case is really needed?
I also have a 1951 Matchless G80 (project ) and the Matchless does not have
the oil in the primary case and it even has two chain in there one for the transmission
and one chain for the generator/alternator.
 

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From: thomasjasper Sent: 12/05/2006 18:05
Judging from letters in Club and the monthly classic magazines, car automatic gearbox fluid seems to be the thing to use although i haven't tried it myself as I don't' have problems. Will probably try it when my rebuild is ready for the road, Joe.
 

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From: thomasjasper Sent: 12/05/2006 18:05
Many people seem to recommend putting  car auto transmission fluid in the primary case. I think you need some form of lubricant for both to lubricate the chain and the roller bearings  between the clutch hub and basket. These rollers only come into operation so to speak when the clutch is withdrawn but not good to run them dry. (Anyone know what happens in the case of belt primary drive; do the simply do clutchless gearchanges, change the rollers regularly, or what????).