Author Topic: C11 Problem  (Read 1212 times)

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Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #30 on: January 22, 2019, 07:37:47 am »
Owen,  looking further obviously they were a press fit in the housing and worked loose, I have 5  spare housings C10 , but looking at them they are identical to the C11, and the rocker pin is a press fit,would that be right, I cant see any obvious  difference, probably means puling the motor out but save a lot of expense. can you tell which cam it is from the number.   

Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #31 on: January 22, 2019, 07:44:22 am »
The wear in that hole was about  1 mm at least probably more more egg shaped,

Offline timsdad

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #32 on: January 22, 2019, 07:52:21 am »
It's really not possible to assess properly without seeing it but Loctite will fix most problems like this, also Araldite on parts that are even worse. The shaft is not a moving part so if it's just cleaned well, the shaft and rocker assembled and left overnight before fitting the pushrod or turning the engine over, then it's well worth a try. Quick and easy with little to lose.

Good stuff, Loctite!


Ray
Just a motorcyclist.

Offline Brillandy

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #33 on: January 22, 2019, 08:30:53 am »
J-B Weld is good stuff too.

Andy
56 C10L
60 Nuffield DM4

Offline camman3

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #34 on: January 22, 2019, 12:14:50 pm »
JB weld is excellent stuff, can be filed drilled and even tapped.
Graham
1957 C12
In sunny (sometimes) Christchurch, Dorset, UK

Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #35 on: January 22, 2019, 05:55:50 pm »
The hole has enlarged beyond loctite, probably what happened is the pushrod jumped right out. I havent heard of JB Weld but im sure its available here its a case of getting the shaft in the correct position in a oversized hole. The C10 crank housings  I have look identical can anyone confirm this, I think its a better option to replace the whole thing, everything else looks fine.

Offline Owen

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #36 on: January 22, 2019, 06:13:37 pm »
I would suggest that you get the casing machined to accept a stepped Bush from the timing side if its that bad. The only difference between a C10 & C11 casings are the holes for the push rods v push rod guides and the cylinder studs. However you would have to have the timing side crank Bush line bored if you fit another casing half a d possibly skim on the barrel mating face of the casing.
1940 C12 (350cc)
1945 C10 & C11
1953 C10 & C11
Anyone want a B20 in need of a lot of tlc

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #37 on: January 22, 2019, 08:02:33 pm »
Hi Steve,
Some photo's would help assess the damage ?
The only reason I can think of a pushrod popping out is a sticky valve ??
Was the spacer sleeve in place on the follower pivot pin?
I would opt to repair you own cases or replace both crankcases as a pair otherwise

John

Offline Brillandy

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #38 on: January 22, 2019, 10:32:28 pm »
56 C10L
60 Nuffield DM4

Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #39 on: January 23, 2019, 12:10:02 am »
That is a good question, there was no spacer or circlip.
I had reset the tappets a while ago just to check, it was always rattley up top, no wonder, half the parts were missing. I agree I will have to repair existing case  oh joy :)

Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #40 on: January 23, 2019, 12:49:30 am »
Damage report

Offline timsdad

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #41 on: January 23, 2019, 06:54:53 am »
I think a pair of C11 cases is the best way round that, or a steel bush if none are available. To get these shafts in and out, I put my cases in an oven and also freeze the pins before I fit them. They are pretty tight and maybe that one was just hammered in cold in a past life, Steve.

It's not a very big job to strip one of these down and, as you know, just needs the right attitude of mind. No one likes doing a job twice but often it's quicker than messing about and trying to find a way round it.


Ray
Just a motorcyclist.

Online Tman

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #42 on: January 23, 2019, 09:41:41 am »
If the engine was stripped down to the crankcase halves it would be a piece of wossname for any half-decent machinist to machine the 'ole back to round and make a simple bush to return the hole to the original size. A decent sized lathe or a smaller lathe and a milling machine is all that's required.
Sticky goos aren't the solution, but a proper (and simple) mechanical repair is.

Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #43 on: January 23, 2019, 06:11:35 pm »
Well that hole has to be inline with the the one in the outer cover, so to me bolting them  together boring inline would be the correct way, otherwise its guesswork, there is 3mm wear in that hole, which says a lot for the old C motor what other motor would operate with that wear and a spacer and circlip missing. Ive a fair idea who would have last been in that area lucky for him hes at the bottom of the South Island :)

Offline stev60

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Re: C11 Problem
« Reply #44 on: January 23, 2019, 06:17:35 pm »
Is it possible to get that side off and leave the rest of the motor in place, and just lift the barrell a bit, to clear the studs the front mounts would be no problem, but the rear maybe and something I havent thought of. The pumps out and in excellent condition, so I will have to apologise for my earlier remarks about them