Author Topic: clutch plates  (Read 858 times)

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Offline AdminPete

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clutch plates
« on: November 24, 2008, 04:59:16 pm »
I got my C11 as a basket case and I'm enjoying dry fitting it  to see what parts I'm missing before beginning a restoration.
 
Like most of the parts, the clutch was disassembled so I don't know how many steel and cork plates I'm supposed to have.  Can someone help me out with that information?
 
Thanks.
Jack
 


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From: nick-bishop0 Sent: 24/05/2006 19:22
just to hijack a bit.
 
 i would like to know how many for a C12 please
 

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From: C10_11_12 Sent: 26/05/2006 21:30
The C10 & C11 (48/53) have one plain steel plate and one friction one (plus one steel back plate). These are the same as the swinging arm A7/10 and B31/33. See drawing in images.
The C11G & C12 have 2 plain steel plates (67-3241 & 67-3240, same as for A7/10 plunger) and 2 friction plates ( 29-3476).
 

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From: nick-bishop0 Sent: 26/05/2006 22:37
Thanks
 
wow i have a complet clutch
 
nick
 

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From: Slickowner Sent: 29/05/2006 13:58
I guess I have a few extra cork and steel plates.  Thanks a lot for the information and drawing.  I appreciate it.
 
Jack
 

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From: thomasjasper Sent: 29/05/2006 22:22
Inner of the two plain steel plates should be slightly thicker than the outer; whether this really matters I don't know but BSA presumably thought so, Joe.
 

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From: PeteRudge1 Sent: 30/05/2006 18:10
If you look at the make up of any clutch, all the plates have even pressure from each side. Not so in the case of the C12. The plain plate at the back sits on the hub with nothing behind to support it, apart from the small step on the hub. I can only assume that this is why BSA chose to beef up the back plate.
I'm using a normal plate on mine, and hope it will be strong enough. If it starts to bend, I'll either fit another plain plate with it, or invest in the thicker one. I think the thicker ones are available from Draganfly.
Pete