Author Topic: Rider's Instruction Book for C10SV and C11OHV  (Read 719 times)

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Offline AdminPete

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Rider's Instruction Book for C10SV and C11OHV
« on: November 26, 2008, 05:41:31 pm »
I've recently picked up this book and am having fun brousing through it.  One of the comments in it is:
"And one more tip that's worth while - have a small quantity of upper-cylinder lubricant added to the petrol each time you fill up - or if this is difficult to obtain, add about an egg-cup full of engine oil to every two gallons of petrol."
 
I'm not sure what "upper-cylinder" lubricant is.  Is there anybody out there doing this.  What are folks doing, if anything, to compensate for having to use lead-free gasoline?
 
Bill
 


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From: BillBeezer Sent: 23/12/2006 20:24
Upper cylinder lubricant was common in the 1950s and 1960s.  The best known brand was Redex.  There used to be a small concical shaped can with a hand trigger and spout standing on top of the petrol pump and some people used to ask for a shot per gallon of petrol.  Supposedly it helped to reduce wear and keep the valves clean.  We had a big tank of it out the back when I worked in a filling station in the early 70s.  It looked like thin, reddish oil.  I have no idea whether it actually did any good.  It fell out of favour as petrol and engines improved and it would probably poison a catalytic converter.
 
I'm currently using a Castrol lead susbstitute in my C12, bought from Halfords.  However, a vintage bike shop I consulted recently said additives were unnecssary for low compression bikes like C11s and C12s which were made to run on much worse petrol than we get now.  If the valve seats do wear, it is a relatively easy job to get them redone and hardened (said the man in the bike shop).  What do others think?
 
BB
 

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From: shuswapkev Sent: 25/12/2006 03:52
mate
     the unleaded thing
ours unleaded just dissapeared in Canada one night... our solution was just to set your valves, go for a few weeks, miles...  if they were the same or looser...you win...if they tighten up... need some new seats...or... a new... I had a 70 bonney, 69 lightening, 70 mgb.. 76 harley 74, jeep pickup...jeep waggoneer,   all supposed to have leaded, worked thru the valve setting and checkup... always used the cheapest unleaded... never had any problems.. all were run about 6 or 7 years, never any problems (with valves or seats) think the main dramas came up in places like oz (where i have shifted to), heaps of rotten little japanese cars... leaded or unleaded, seems like you need a head job as often as you change your undies...  first time the water temp rises to the red, the alloy head loses its hardening... out goes the head gasket... and you now need a new head...yours is "too soft" ....think this is what gets the blame for unleadfed. cast iron heads you can depend on, alloy is pretty temporary