Author Topic: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET  (Read 393 times)

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Offline birchy

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SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« on: July 14, 2019, 06:29:09 am »
Hi All
If i am going to work on the chewed out kick starter stop rubber then i may as well replace the leaking head gasket. Was going to order the solid copper head gasket from Copper Gaskets Unlimited,they are 1 mm thick to suit a C11. I assume i need to anneal it before i fit it?
 Do i need to put some sealant on both sides of the solid copper gasket, if so what type?
 I put nothing on the composite gasket that is currently leaking oil around the head to cylinder joint. Has been leaking for some time, continually check that the nuts are tight but it still leaks and just makes a mess.
cheers
Birchy

Online Owen

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2019, 07:25:38 am »
Yes anneal before fitting, some people will use sealant like blue Hylomar (silicon sealant) others don't see the need.
1940 C12 (350cc)
1945 C10 & C11
1953 C10 & C11
Anyone want a B20 in need of a lot of tlc

Online MilitaryRon

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2019, 08:04:54 am »
The gasket material from Lani at Copper Gaskets Unlimited is already soft, ready to use. "Belt and Braces" I always coat all services with https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=wellseal using a small brush and leave to set for 1/2 hour or more.  Ron

Offline timsdad

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2019, 08:58:23 am »
As it costs nothing, I always anneal copper gaskets just before use just to be sure because copper can go a bit hard again in storage.

Folk mostly have their pet theories about sealing them but I've used Blue Hylomar now for many years and it works well for me. I don't think it makes much difference what sealer you use, or grease or nothing, all of which I've done in the past for testing purposes. The secret is good preparation and cleanliness, all of which you know about and have been covered previously several times.

My 650 Triumph twin has now done about 30,000 miles since the head was last off, that was when I replaced the piston rings, and was the third time the head gasket had been annealed and used.

My method, if it's any use to you, is to heat the gasket up to redness, round and round, quicker and quicker to avoid cooling too much between passes. I hold it up with a bit of steel wire while heating with a gas torch and with another bit of wire, in a vice, hooked into a bottom bolt hole to stop the plot swinging about too much. When it's hot enough I speedily unhook it from the bottom wire and plunge it straight down, edge first, into a nearby bucket of cold water so it all cools uniformly and quickly.

I then dry it and give it a quick polish all over with fine Wet & Dry, about 800g, clean with meths and wrap it up in clean cloth as protection. With the head, barrel, threads and washers all previously cleaned, lubed and covered up with paper towel, I give the head and barrel faces a final wipe over with meths, coat the gasket with a thin layer of Hylomar both sides, another quick blow with compressed air over the head and barrel, place the gasket down on the barrel and then the head on top without any unnecessary jiggling about. The minute or two this takes to do is enough for the Hylomar to 'go off' and I get no trouble. Works for me!


Ray
Just a motorcyclist.

Offline Donald

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2019, 10:30:28 am »
Hi there, can't fault Ray's method. I wait till the lady of the house is out, then select the right size of gas ring on the kitchen cooker,so as the gasket gets an even heat, once it's cherry red , hook it up bit wire and into basin of water, clean and  "I" fit them dry.

Offline Tman

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2019, 10:49:56 am »
And no-one's chipped in with the "no, annealing is achieved by heating the gasket up to cherry red and letting it cool in the air" theory yet either. ;)

Online MilitaryRon

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2019, 11:38:04 am »
I use the method like Ray, hang on a hook and chase the red round with a gas torch, but I just let them cool naturally. Ron

Online Owen

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2019, 01:51:20 pm »
Loads of info on the Web that says no difference between air and water cooling for copper apart from the obvious of handling the water cooled one almost Immediately.
1940 C12 (350cc)
1945 C10 & C11
1953 C10 & C11
Anyone want a B20 in need of a lot of tlc

Online MilitaryRon

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2019, 03:08:31 pm »
Yep I agree with that Owen. Although in my mind, if you're going to quench it, it's possible that the whole thing needs to be cherry red. I'm thinking that if you chase the heat round, the bit behind the red bit is starting to air cool already.........I'm probably over thinking it :-\  Ron

Offline timsdad

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #9 on: July 14, 2019, 05:57:19 pm »
I think, like everyone else, I'm just happy to keep using my own method because why change if it works for me?

Ray
Just a motorcyclist.

Online Owen

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #10 on: July 14, 2019, 08:41:33 pm »
It's another one of those no one's right, but no one's wrong things.
1940 C12 (350cc)
1945 C10 & C11
1953 C10 & C11
Anyone want a B20 in need of a lot of tlc

Online Owen

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Re: SOLID COPPER HEAD GASKET
« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2019, 02:48:22 pm »
So to put this one to bed.
Wellseal or blue Hylomar have been recommended by members and others don't use any sealant at all.
Both slow air cooling or water quenching will anneal the copper sufficiently.
1940 C12 (350cc)
1945 C10 & C11
1953 C10 & C11
Anyone want a B20 in need of a lot of tlc